Day 139 Welcome to the Sea of Cortez

Dec 24


The drive from Rancho Santa Inez was not fun.


Make shift sun screen on the passenger side to keep the sun off the girls.

My first task upon reaching the East side of Baja was finding a place for the night.  As expected, it had been a very stressful slow hot drive across the peninsula with high winds pushing Oso was a tumbleweed. My arms were tired after hours of fighting the steering wheel but after one last windy series of mountain passes I finally had a glimpse of the Sea of Cortez.


Last of the turns and far off in the distance you can see the water! A welcome sight after so many hours in the desert.

I pushed onward through Santa Rosalita. Although willing to stay just about anywhere due to the late hour, Rosalie’s beaches were unappealing and the city proper was too old with tiny narrow streets for me to drive.  Down the road I finally found a turn off at a sign that promised a spot:Playa Los Amigo. I took the turn and started down what looked like a washed out riverbed and I took a gulp.   My worries were squelched when a truck coming toward me stopped and the driver, a boisterous Australian, welcomed me.  He told me to take a left, right, right, left… or something like that…. to get to the beach.  There I’d find  some RV set ups and about 20 beach dogs.


A little more about this cemetery later….

It sounded a bit daunting but at least I had a place to crash for the night.  With only one wrong turn, that took me to the local cemetery, I found the beach.  It’s always daunting to drive into these places.  I’m never sure whether I’m driving into someone’s yard, stock yard, orchard, or a public place.  I don’t know why it worries me so much.  I suppose I don’t want to be rude but more to the point I’m afraid of being yelled at.  I know, I know…. It’s that Harrison ‘anxiety about authority and strangers’ phobia.

The Poodles and I took a hike on the beach


Not the white sandy beaches we’ve gone accustomed to….

Southern Baja (Baja Sur) was hit pretty hard with devastating weather that wiped out large areas and crippled others.  In September, hurricane Oile was the last storm to run it’s course, and according to locals and seasonal residence, the damage reached far up the coast of the Sea of Cortez.  It did a lot more damage than I’d imagined, I had no idea that it  so far north in what seemed to me a protected bay. Here are a few pictures I pulled off the internet to help visualize Olie’s severity.





Seeing the aftermath (three months later) is impressive, considering the clean-up and reconstruction that’s happened but, unfortunately, there’s no fixing it all and some of the coast is now  changed permanently.  The campground where I stayed for the past 4 nights is evidence of that.  The once white sandy beach is now tidal mudflat.  The owner of the spot was very worried that his long-time seasonal residence wouldn’t come back. Luckily for all of us they have.  I’ve had the opportunity to meet some interesting and wonderful people here.

I wasn’t very impressed with the beach as it was thick muddy sand, a little stinky and covered a very modest portion of the shoreline.  The rest of the shoreline bordered a desert scape of thorny thicket and dried river beds which did not inspired investigation.  With so little to explore I was sure that I’d be leaving the next morning. Boy was I wrong.


On the beach

I had a much needed quiet Christmas Eve with the girls.  I did, however, decide to stay a few days, relax and work on the blog ….besides,  what’s the hurry?

 View from the beach toward the camping area